15jc pdf

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Guarantees 1. We provide 90 days warranty. We have a professional business development department to strictly test and verify the qualifications of AMD original manufacturers and agents. We strictly implement supplier audits, so you can purchase with confidence. Check the leads for resistance; replace any that show a high resistance. If resistance is low, the coil is probably shorted and should be replaced.

Condenser: The. Check for shorting between the primary and secondary coils by checking for continuity between a primary terminal and -secondary terminal. Install the start-disconnect when used diaphragm and plunger, and install the start-disoonnect breaker points. Adjust the start-disconnect breaker point gap to.

A defective condenser causes. Use a standard commercial oondenser checker to test the condenser for leakage, open.. If no tester is available, check for shorts or defective leads and replace the condenser if you ,suspect it of defects.

Coil: If spark is weak or there is no spark, and the breaker points are clean and properly adjusted, test the coil for possible defects. Crank the engine. If there is a good spark the coil is operating. Also test the coil as follows: 1. The magneto is behind the flywheel and consists of both stator and secondary windings, energized by permanent magnets on the flywheel. For maintenance, timing, condenser repair, and for breaker repair, refer to the applicable section in battery ignition.

Magneto Coil: The magneto coil is located behind the engine flywheel and reached by removing the flywheel. If ignition spark at the spark plugs is defective, first inspect the breaker points. To test the coil, remove both spark plug leads; ground one to bare engine metal. If not, the coil, flywheel magnets, or high tension leads are defective. Test the coil as follows: 1. With an ohmmeter, check resistance between the lead to the breaker points disconnected from the points and a good ground on the engine.

Resistance should be about O. Remove both spark plug leads from the plugs and measure resistance between the leads. If it is greater, either the leads or magneto high tension coils contain a high resistance or are open circuited. The magneto should be removed to test resistances of the coil and leads separately. Inspect the high tension terminals on the coil for corrosion. If the resistance is low, the secondary winding is probably shorted and the coil must be replaced.

Any continuity indicates a defec- tive coil. Flywheel Magnets: Permanent magnets mounted on the flywheel provide a ma gnetic field for the magneto coils. Never remove these magnets from the flywheel, it may destroy their alignment and seriously weaken the magnets. The magnets shouldn't loose strength with age or be affected by dropping the flywheel. If the magnetism is lost, return the flywheel to the factory for recharging.

Some, flywheel magnet chargers in the field can recharge the magnets, but makeshift equipment will probably reduce the magnetism further. To recharge the magnet it must have the correct polarity. After normal use, the vertical surfaces of the cap inserts beCome slightly burned. If yertical or horizontal faces of inserts B,re burned. Inspect the rotor for cracks or for burning on the top of the metal strip. But if the top is burned, replace the rotor. Timing: The]C ignition system may be timed either with the engine stopped or running.

But before timing the ignition, be sure the breaker pOInts are clean and properly adjusted. Set the timing at 25 0 BTC of each compression stroke. The system'includes ignition coil, distributor with spark advance and breaker points, and spark plugs. DisGOnnect the low voltage lead to the distributor and connect a test lamp and battery so the lamp lights when the breaker points are closed.

Periodic maintenance of the system should include oiling the distributor, cleaning and adjusting the breaker points, checking ignition timing, cleaning and adjusting the spark plugs, and general inspection of the ignition system wiring. Remove the spark plug from 1 cylinder and rotate the flywheel clockwise until -air is forced out of the spark plug hole. Maintenance: At regnlar intervals, add 3 to 5 drops of medium engine oil to the oiler on the distributor.

Add 1 drop of light engine oil to. Wipe grease lightly. Don't over lubricate the'distributor. To adjust the breaker points, remove the distributor cap and rotor. Rotate the crankshaft to get maximum breaker gap. The gap should be between. At the same time, inspect the points for dirt or pitting. Dirty points can be cleaned with tape and carbon tetrachloride. But if the points are excessively -pitted, they must be replaced.

Check the distributor cap for cracks, carbon runners, corroded high tension terminals or excessively burned inserts. Continue rotating the flywheel slowly until the test lamp goes out, indicating that the breaker points have opened.

If the TC mark on the flywheel and the ignition timing pointer are aligned, timing is, correct, otherwise adjust the distributor. To adjust timing, align the flywheel TC mark and the timing pointer. Loosen the distributor body and rotate if clockwise if ignition occured. Tighten the distributor bOdy in the new position. If timing still doesn't occur at the correct point, repeat step 4.

Timing, Engine Running: 1. Run the. Aim the flashing timing light in thtough the access door opening and toward the flywheel. The engine overheats rapidly and could damage itself. Run without load. The timing pointer on the gear cover must indicate 25 0 BTC. If timing is early 25 0 mark to the right of the pointer rotate the distributor clockwise to retard the ignition point.

Tighten the distributor in its mount and recheck timin g. NOT E: If the relative position of the timing marks doesn't remain steady, the distributor may be defective. Testing: Remove the distributor and test it on a commercial tester. Following the equipment manufacturer's instructions, check the centrifugal advance mechanism. Do not set breaker gap by cam dwell. With the proper point gap, if cam dwell is outside the above limits, check for woro distributor cam. To adjust tension, refer to Distributor Assembly.

Remove the distributor cap by releasirig the clips on the distribu tor. Remove the primary lead from the distributor terminal. Rerord the distributor body position and the rotor position for easier assembly. Remove the distributor hold-down capscrew and pull the distributor out of the crankcase. Remove the 3 screws holding the breaker plate to the distributor housingand loosen the primary lead mounting terminal.

Lift the breaker ,urn off its hin ge. If a distributor tester isn't available, test as follows: To check the spark advance mechanism, remove the distributor cap and rotate the rotor several degrees clockwise. If the advance mechanism is operating properly, the rotor will return to its original position. If not, overhaul the distributor. Thoroughly inspect the breaker points and check to be sure the movable contact turns freely on its pi vat.

Using a spring scale Fig. Tension should be 17 to 20 ounces. Rotate the breaker plate counterclockwise about 45 0 and pull it out of the distributor body. Remove the two centrifugal advance springs.

Remove the spring clip cam retaining spring holding the cam to the drive shaft and lift out the cam. The weights are now free and can be lifted out. To remove the drive shaft, grind or file off the peenedover end of the pin holding the drive gear to the shaft. Drive out. Then tighten the primary terminal.

Align the contacts so they make contact at the center. Bend the stationary contact bracket. Check the tension of the breaker spring wi th a spring scale hooked on the arm at the contact and held at right aogles to the contact surfaces Fig. Tension should be 17 to 20 oz. Adjust it by loosening the screw holding the end of the contact spring and installing spacing washers or sliding the end of the spring in or out. Rotate the drive shaft to obtain maximum breaker gap and set the gap for.

If necessary, press the two bronze beari,ngs out of the distributor body. Repair: Clean all components except the condenser, breaker points and bushings in light cleaning solvent.

Inspect the centrifugal advance component for signs of wear and replace any that appear worn or otherwise damaged. Inspect the cam and shaft for wear or score marks.

If either is scored, replace it. To check bearing wear, set tbe drive shaft into the body and measure tbeside play at the top of the cam with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator on the distributor body, and measure the side play by pulling the shaft directly away from the indicator witb a force of about 5 pounds.

Side play should he less than. If not. This can be done by an Authorized service station. Assembly, Distributor: 1. Install tbe shaft assembly with the upper drive shaft Installation, Distributor: Install the distributor in exactly the same position before removal. After installing, perform the following steps 4, 5, and R 6. If the exact position of both distributor body and rotor weren't recorded or the crankshaft was rotated, use the following procedure. Remove the spark plug from 1 cylinder.

Place a finger over the spark plug hole aod rotate the flywheel clockwise until the cylinder builds up pressure. Continue rotating until the TC mark of the flywheel aligns with the timing pointer. Install the rotor on the distributor shaft and the "0" ring on the body. While holding the distributor in the position shown in Fig. Install tbe lower drive shaft thrust washer and drive gear. Install a pin through tbe drive gear and shaft and peen it into place.

Check the drive shaft end play Fig. It should be betweeo. If end play is too small, tap tbe lower end of the distributor drive shaft lightly with a soft hammer to increase play. If it is too great, check the thrust washer installation or reo-install the gear. Set the centrifugal advance weights into place and install the cam. Be sure the pivots on the cam fit into the hole in each weight.

Secure the cam with the spring clip and install the weight springs. Install and secure the breaker plate. Mount the breaker arm on its pivot and place the control 35 ing hole. If necessary, turn the rotor slightly to align teeth of gear. If the rotor is not in the position shown, repeat the procedure changing the gear alignment. Install the distributor clamp screw.

Time the ignition system. Ignition Coil: The JC plant uses a standard automotive ignition coil mounted on the air shroud near the engine access door. Inspect and tighten the primary terminals. Inspect the secondary terminal and clean it if necessary. A spark between the lead and engine indicates the coil is operating, although it might be weak.

No spark indicates that the coil, points, or cpntrol circuit to the coil are defective. Check for voltage between the coil n"egative - terminal and ground while cranking the plant and inspect the breaker points. Ignition Condenser: The condenser is mounted on the outside side of the distributor. Capacitance should be.

Resistance from the high tension terminal to the ground - terminal should be 7, to IO,OOO-ohms; resistance between the primary terminals, about I-ohm. Clean and inspect the plugs, at regular intervals. Clean c;m a commercial plug cleaner and gap. For gasoline operation, the spark plug gap should be set at. When spark plug electrodes become worn or if the plugs are damaged, replace them. When installing spark plugs always use new gaskets.

A start solenoid in the control box controls starting. The starting motor mounts on the right side of the engine and drives the flywheel for starting. It is a standal'd automotive starting motor with solenoid shift and over-running clutch, controlled by a s tart solenoid in the control box. When the control box solenoid energizes, the solenoid on the motor operates, shifting the starter pinion to engage the flywheel ring gear and closing the circuit to the starting motor.

The starting motor remains engaged until after the engine starts when the control circuit centrifugal switch closes, completing the starting- -cycle. The over-running clutch protects the starter armature from overspeeds. Plants with revolving armature generators use the generator as a starting motor Fig. If the starter wouldn't crank over the engine compression stroke, high currents passing through the armature may burn out thp.

The battery, cables, and generator must be in good operating condition. Every hours inspect all starting system wiring for loose or dirty connections, especially connections to the battery terminals.

Inspect the generator, commutator and brushes for wear, scoring or dirt. For repair instructions refer to Generator Repairs. Separate Starting Motor: Every hours check for loose or dirty connections.

Check the battery water level and charge condition every hours. Inspect the starter cqmmutator and if it is dirty, clean with 00 sandpaper.

If not, recharge the battery. If the battery won't recharge, replace it. Wiring: With the starting motor operating, check the voltage drops 1 from the battery ground terminal post not the cable clamp to the cylinder block 2 from the cylinder block to the starting motor frame and 3 from the battery positive post to the battery terminal stud on the solenoid.

Each drop should be less than 0. If extra long battery cables are used, slightly higher voltage drops may result. Thoroughly clean all connections in any part of the circuit showing excessively high voltage drops. Ballery: Check battery condition with a hydrometer. Specific 38 Starting Motor: If starting motor tests are required, remove the motor from the plant.

Complete starting motor tests should include both tests of free running voltage, speed and current and tests of stall torque, voltage and current. To test the free running characteristics, connect the starting motor in series with a battery and ammeter and instaH a tachometer on the motor.

Low Free Speed, Low Torque, Low Current Open field winding,or high internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, or dirty commutator. Since there is no easy way to detect shorted field coils because of their low resistance, replace them and check for improved perfonnance.

The torque test Fig. The voltage drop across the solenoid on the starting- "motor should be less than 1. If not, remove it for repair. Remove the thru bolts from the commutator end of the motor. Pull off the end cover and lift the brushes off their seats.

Pull the cast housing from the front end of the motor and lift the armature and clutch out of the motor frame. Exciter cranked plants use 2 six-volt batteries in series. Do not use undersize batteries on revolving armature plants as serious 5. To remove the over-running clutch from the armature, drive the retainer away from lockring near the front end of the shaft, remove the lockring and pull the assembly off.

Don't attempt to disassemble the clutch assembly. The plant battery charging system maintains the batteries, at or near full charge at all times.

If discharging or failure to charge can't be traced to the battery charging system, thoroughly inspect and test the battery. Remove electrical ronnections to control box and battery at the shifting solenoid. Remove, the engine front air housing and remove the flywheel. Remove the three capscrews holding the starting motor mounting flange to the crankcase. Then pull the starting motor off the engine. Be careful not to lose any shims that might be behind the flange. If necessary to service the solenoid, remove the four capscrews and electrical connection holding it to the motor frame.

Remove the two screws on the rear of the sole! Test for grounds with a volt test lamp. Check between each commutator segment and the shaft.. If commutator is grounded, lamp will light and will requite replacement. Use a growler to test for shorted coils. Place annattire in growler and run a steel strip over the armature surface. If a -coil is shorting, the steel strip becomes magnetized and vibrates. Rotate armature slightly and repeat test for one complete revolution of the armature.

If armature is defective, replace it. Blow the sand out of motor after cleaning. If heavily scored or worn, turn it down in a lathe. Field Coils: Using a volt test lamp and probes. Inspect all connections to be sure they are properly clinched and soldered. Inspect the insulation for evidences of damage. The only way to check for field coil shotts is to use the starting motor test.

Bearings: If either the front or rear bearings show excessive wear, replace them. Drive the old bearings Qut, and- using an arbor press and the proper arbor, press new bearirigs into place. Brushes: Check the brushes for wear or improper seating. They should slide freely in their holders. Check the brush spring tension with a spring scale. To change spring tension, twist the spring at the holder with long nosed pliers.

Be sure the felt oil pad "is in the outer end 'of the commutator end bearing. After assembly, check the armature end play. It should be. Adjust end play by adding or removing washers at the commutator end. Check pinion clearance Figure 52 to ensure eng! Press solenoid core to shift pinion into full mesh. Adjust solenoid plunger link screw for proper clearance.

If brushes are excessively worn, replace them. Some brushes are soldered to the field lead. To remove these brushes, unsolder the lead and open the loop in the field coil lead.

Insert the new brush pigtail completely into the loop and clinch before resoldering. Overrunning Clutch: Clean the clutch thoroughly but don't dip in solvent. It can't be repacked with grease. It- should slide easily on the armature shaft with no binding.

Turn the pinion; it should rotate smoothly, but not necessarily freely. Reverse the direction a few times and it 'should instantly lock and unlock. Replace the clutch if operation is defective or pinion is worn or damaged. When installing these motors, check this gap. If it is too great, a shim kit is available to reduce it Figure 53J. Required on some early models.

Be sure t9 install same number of shims removed. A poor or clogged system causes low power, overheating and engine damage. A poor exhaust system increases back pressure which reduces efficiency. If high hack pressure is suspected, follow procedure outlined below. Connect a manometer' or pressure gauge to the adapter. If there is a condensation trap next to the manifold, use it for the manometer connection. Run the plant under full-load and observe the manometer.

If the reading is higher, the exhaust system should either be disassembled and cleaned or altered to reduce back pressure. All repairs should be accomplished by a competent mechanic. Maintain factory limits and clearances see Dimension and Clearance Section. The valve assemblies are operated by pushrods running through the cylinder head and push rod shields to the camshaft. Exhaust valves are hardened chrome alloy faced and ride on hardened chrome alloy seat inserts; all valves have release type rotaters.

Check the valve clearances at regular intervals. In addition, scrape the combustion chambers clean and inspect the valves and valve seats regularly.

If the combustion chambers show excessive carbon build up, reduce the interval between cleaning. Adjustment: After engine has reached a stable temperature condition the valve clearances may be adjusted.

It is recommended that the valve clearance is set with engine at room temperature approximately 7S0 F. Allow at least two hours cooling time after engine operation. Adjust valve clearance on the Two-Cylinder J-Series engines as follows: 1. Turn the flywheel until the cylinder which is to. Tum the flywheel until the TC top center mark on the flywheel lines up with the timing pointer on the gear cover. Then turn the flywheel in a clockwise direction for an additional 10 to 45 degrees.

There -is no -timing mark for this position so it must be estima ted. With the piston located in this position the cylinder will be in its power stroke wi th both valves completely closed. Check the cylinder head-bolt torque. Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the rocker arm and the valve see Fig. Increase or reduce the clearance until the proper gap is established adjusting with the locknut which secures the rocker arm to the cylinder head.

Refer to Table 3 for correct valve clearance setting for your particular engine. Adjust valve clearance on the Four-Cylinder J-Series engine as follows: 1. Adjust the valve clearance in the firing order sequence.

After the cooling period, set timing for the 1 cylinder and the valve clearance. The fly0 wheel position should be between. NOTE: Early model four-cylinder. After timing the number 2 cylinder, adjust the valve.

The flywheel should be between and 45 0 past the TC flywheel mark. After timing the number 4 cylinder, adjust the valve clearance.

The flywheel should be between and 45 0 past the BC flywheel mark. Remove all the carbon deposits from the bustion chambers and clean all gasket surfaces.

After timing the number 3 cylinder, adjust the valve clearance. Testing: Run the engine until thoroughly warm.

Stop and remove all spark plugs. Insert the compression gauge in a spark plug hole, crank the engine, and note the reading. To check for piston blow by, squirt a small amount of SAE 50 oil into the cylinder and repeat the check.

An increase in compression with oil in the cylinder indicates piston blow-by. Compression of a standard new engine cranking at about rpm is about psi. Compression should be fairly uniform, normally with less than 10 psi difference between the highest and lowest cylinder, taken at the same cranking rpm.

Excessively high readings indicate carboned combustion chambers. Compression readings will change because of differences in cranking speed, altitude and ambient temperature conditions. There the limits are given only as a guide. Remove all carbon and check each valve for burning, pitting or warped stem. Valves that are slightly pitted or burned, refinish on an accurate valve grinder to a 45 0 angle But, if they are badly pitted, or will have a thin edge when refaced, replace them.

If the proper clearances can't be obtained by replacing the valves, repface the valve guides. Ream the new valve guide to obtain the proper clearance see Dimensions and Clearances Section. If the valve seats are pitted, refinish them. Disassembly: NOTE: Valves, tappets, rocker arms and pushrods should be kept in order and returned in same order. Remove the intake and exhaust manifold, 2'. Remove the caps crews holding each cylinder head to the cylinder block. If it sticks, rap it sharply with a soft hammer.

Don't use a pry. Use Onan A in a drill press Fig. Oil the pilot to prevent seizing in the valve guide. Cut each seat down to a narrow rind on edges and bottom and break it out with a sharp tool. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods. Using a valve spring compressor, disassemble the valve assemblies. If the counterbore is damaged, machine for an oversize seat. Oversize seats are available in. Otherwise, install new standard size seat inserts. See Dimension and Clearance Section for valve spring data.

Push a new valve stem oil seal onto each intake valve guide and clamp in place. Then oil the inside surface of each seal. Oil the stem of each valve lightly and insert each in it's own guide.

Check each valve for a tight seat with an air pressure type tester. If a tester isn't available, make pencil marks at intervals on the valve face and observe if the marks rub off uniformly when the valve is rotated part of a tum the seat. If the seat isn't tight, regrind the valves. After installation and before facing the neW seats, peen the head material against the valve seat in the 3 areas between the machine roll marks Fig.

The fi n ish e d seat face should contact approximately center of the valve face. Use'Prussian Blue on each va]ve face to check this. Make corrections to the. Using a valve spring compressor, compress each valve spring with its spring retainer in place and insert the retainer locks. Coat both sides of head gasket with Permatex No.

Install the head assembly and gasket to the cylinder block. Tighten the head bolts one or two turns. Make up push rod shield assemblies by installing an ClO" ring on one end of the rod and a spring, washer, and "0" ring on the opposite end. Lift the cylinder heads and install the pushrod shield assemblies Fig.

Tighten the head bolts to 28 to 30 lbs. Use standard rings for these pistons. When removing piston assemblies, check marking so each can be re-installed in the proper cy linder.

Keep all components of each piston assembly together. Assemble the heads, gaskets, and pushrod shields to the block and install the cap screws, but don't tighten. Install the intake manilold to the heads and tighten the nuts to 13 - 15 lbs. Tighten the cylinder head capscrews following the sequence in Fig.

Install the exhaust manifold, oil lines, spark plugs and carburetor. Sefthe valve clearance according to Table 3.

NOTE: After the first 50 hours of operation, retighten the cylinder head bolts and recheck valve clearance. Reinstall the rocker box cover, air housing and access door.

Full floating piston pins, held in place with snap rings, connect the piston to its connecting rod. The lower end of each connecting rod contains half steel, precision bearings and the upper end, semi-finished bushings.

Scrape off the carbon ring and ridge at the top of each cylinder to prevent -damaging rings or pistons.