Moulding coping tools

Order yours online today! The Coping Foot is a dome shape base for the jig saw that allows you to bevel, turn and pitch the blade while changing any of those angles during the cut. Any way the blade is angled the saw is supported right at the kerf.

Making a twisting cut such as you would find in a spiral handrail is a skill easy to learn with a coping foot. When the saw is held by the barrel with the blade up, very clean, accurate and complex cuts can be made such as you would encounter coping crown molding. The Coping Foot is very compact. You can saw very close to other obstacles. Do a sink cutout up against a back splash for instance or cut a bottom plate next to a stud.

The other piece of the corner will be coped to fit this piece. Take the other piece and make an inside miter cut at 45 degrees. When making this initial miter cut, it is best to leave an extra couple inches on the moulding and cut it to length when the coping is complete. Take your cut piece of moulding and darken the profile of the leading edge of the moulding with a pencil. This will be the guideline when making the cope cut along the miter. Use a coping saw with a sharp blade and cut along the darkened edge of the profile angling the blade to remove more of the wood from the back rather than the front of the moulding.

Tip: Due to the ornate and often curved nature of crown moulding, making relief cuts before beginning to cope will help make cutting turns and sharp corners easier and more precise. Relief cuts are preparatory, short straight cuts at right angles to curved profiles that prevent the saw from sticking when cutting the curve.

Use a rasp, file, or sandpaper to clean up the cut and smooth out the rough edges for a perfect fit. Place the square cut moulding first. Then add the coped piece, placing it snug against the square cut moulding to form a tight corner. MT Copeland offers video-based online classes that give you a foundation in construction fundamentals with real-world applications, like coping crown moulding.

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Tool Reviews About Contact Advertise. Benefits to Coping Inside Corners There are a few reasons why carpenters have always coped inside corners. Wood swells and shrinks with seasonal changes. If a coped joint opens up, the crack will be obvious when viewed parallel to the uncoped piece and nearly invisible viewed parallel to the coped piece.

Coping the molding is done by cutting out the molding back 45 degrees and allow us only to have the joint touch at the front edge — tighter gap — especially with variances Coping Molding Two Tips To cope a joint, is to cut precisely along the profile of the molding, but not at the customary 90 degrees. Coping Saw Coping can be accomplished with a specialty handsaw, called a coping saw, or a jigsaw with a Collins foot.

This video will focus on the coping saw method and we can cover the Collins jig another day. How To Cope Molding Set miter saw to an inside 45 degrees, in the direction that the an inside corner would run Trace the profile to make the profile more visible. Use a fine-tooth coping saw — cut the bottom corner square Continue to cut along the moldings profile edge with a slight degree, back-angle. This is a technique called back-cutting.

The back cut ensures that there is no interfering material so the profile fits tight. The goal here is to cut the profile back to reveal the front edge of the molding profile. This will allow an adjacent molding to touch the front edge.

Cut off the waste along the way, at sharp turns in the molding profile.