Leaf shrivel virus

Avoid wounding the bark of affected trees. Care for the tree as normal, minimizing any stresses. Ganoderma root rot A butt rot may take several years to kill the tree but makes the tree very susceptible to wind-throw. A distinctive shelf-like fruiting structure forms singly on the wood at or near the soil line. It is brown to reddish brown on top with a cream to white margin. The brown portion appears to have been varnished. The shelf grows perennially for 5 to 10 years and may reach 8 to 12 inches across.

The underside of the shelf is light colored with tiny pores in which the spores are formed. The underside turns brown where scratched and forms an interesting drawing surface, thus the common name "artist's conk.

Ganoderma applanatum formerly Fomes applanatus Although it may require several years for the tree to die, an infected tree poses a hazard.

A tree with fungal fruiting structures on it should be removed promptly if it is in a location where property damage may occur or where people or pets could be struck by falling limbs or the falling tree.

Inonotus root rot A root and butt rot develops. Trees may topple before any obvious symptoms are noted. Infected trees often have branch dieback and fewer than normal leaves that are yellowed. Although the root rot begins well out on the root system, the fungus eventually reaches the butt of the tree where it forms large, tough, irregularly shaped, light- to dark-brown shelves at or just above the soil line.

With age, these become very rough and dark brown to black. Cutting the shelf reveals a reddish-brown center. The underside of the shelf is brown with tiny pores in which the spores are formed.

A sure sign of severe damage to the tree is the presence of the fruiting structures. Inonotus dryadeus formerly Polyporus dryadeus Infected trees should be removed immediately.

Laetiporus root rot Massive clusters of bright sulfur-yellow to salmon to bright-orange, shelf-like fruiting structures that turn white with age initially form in the summer or autumn on the wood of the tree but fall off during the winter. The underside of the fruiting structure has tiny pores in which the spores are formed. New shelves form on the wood the following summer and autumn. The bark where the fruiting structure forms is slightly depressed and cracked. Laetiporus sulfureus formerly Polyporus sulfureus Fruiting structures form long after most of the damage has been done.

Infected trees are very prone to wind breakage even before the fungus begins to form fruiting structures and should be removed at the first sign of infection. Trees with iron chlorosis and those under other stresses are most severely affected. Tubakia formerly Actinopelte Little damage results from this disease, which does not cause defoliation. No control action is recommended for landscape situations. Apply a fungicide in the nursery beginning at bud break.

Leaf cells in the spots multiply more than surrounding cells, and a raised blister-like buckling of the leaf results. As the spots age, their upper surface becomes covered with a buff white coating of fungal growth that later turns brown.

The leaves usually do not fall prematurely. Taphrina caerulescens Fungicide application in the landscape is not necessary because the leaves are seldom severely spotted and do not fall prematurely. Although infections may be extensive some years, little damage actually results. In the nursery, a fungicide must be applied late in dormancy prior to bud break to prevent spotting. Once bud break has occurred and symptoms are visible, it is too late to spray.

Powdery mildew White fungal growth develops on the surface of leaves in the autumn. Microsphaera This disease develops so late in the year that no significant damage occurs. No control is recommended. To fix curled leaves, protect the tomato from the scorching sun and heat, also water it when the soil dries out to 1 inch.

In addition, fertilize the plant at least twice a season and treat it for pests. Tomato leaves curl because of temperature stress. First of all, this can happen in extreme heat. This happens because the roots are unable to put enough water into the leaves even if the ground is moist. By curling folding the leaves, the tomato reduces the area of moisture evaporation, thereby avoiding the desiccation of the leaves.

The second case is when there is too much sun. The tomato prefers direct sun all day. But in midsummer, the sun is very intense, and if you live in the south, the plant can get stress or even sunburn. Very often heat and sun work together and can greatly affect the appearance of the tomato. Usually, the curling of the leaves from the heat and sun is not fatal. In some percentage of cases, the sun and heat can still damage tomato leaves.

If you want to help your tomato install a shade net over it. When the heat subsides, remove the screen immediately so the tomato gets enough light. If the bright sun and heat last long, then shade the tomato only from the sun in the middle of the day. That is, the tomato should receive direct sunlight in the morning and evening.

Because staying in full shade for a long time will also lead to negative effects. Also, sometimes the curling of the leaves is due to cold weather or cold winds. Once the cold weather is gone, the plant will continue to grow normally.

But if you want everything to be perfect, cover the tomato if the weather forecasters pass a cold snap. Tomato leaves curling because of underwatering.

Tomatoes need a lot of water for normal fruiting. But in a summer drought, there may not be enough water in the ground, causing the leaves to curl for the same purpose as in the previous case. Curled leaves evaporate less water in hot weather.

Tomatoes grown in pots are the most commonly affected by thirst. In the summertime, the soil in a pot that is placed in a sunny spot can dry out within a day. To solve the problem of lack of water, you need to constantly monitor the moisture of the soil. Do this with a moisture meter or with your fingers. If the soil is more than 1 inch dry, you need to water the tomato. The exception to this is tomatoes growing in the greenhouse.

When watering, moisten not just one inch of soil that has dried out. Water generously all the soil around the roots. After watering, the soil should be moist but not wet. The second problem is overwatering.

If you water too often or with too much water, the roots can start to rot. As a result, the water supply to the leaves will be interrupted and the leaves may curl down.

Hibiscuses generally require a lot of potassium, a little phosphorus and a medium amount of nitrogen. Applying too much of the improper fertilizer will cause problems. Always use a fertilizer designed for hibiscuses with an N-P-K of Leaf scorch -- also called leaf burn -- caused by excessive cold, excessive heat, frost and harsh winds will result in shriveled, discolored, wilted and black foliage that dies and drops from the plant.

Ensuring the hibiscus is grown in the proper climate helps to prevent leaf scorch. Of course, there's not much you can do about unusual weather. The mulch keeps moisture near the roots while protecting them from fluctuations in temperature. Amanda Flanigan began writing professionally in Flanigan has written for various publications, including WV Living and American Craft Council, and has published several eBooks on craft and garden-related subjects.

Flanigan completed two writing courses at Pierpont Community and Technical College. By Amanda Flanigan. Related Articles.